Taking the drop

Long-time readers will know I have been learning to surf. It is one of the hardest things I have ever done.

Read the water and waves. That is a lifelong journey. Speaking ocean fluently is a master course.

Know conditions. Each break has its signature.

Constantly adjust to the always changing environment — moment to moment.

Be aware of the tides. Tides change waves.

All of this before you even begin.

Then there is the equipment. The board makes a huge difference. Different waves and conditions need different boards. Trying to surf a wave on the wrong board increases the degree of difficulty.

Finally, we get to the surfer. Skill is one thing. Time on the water over years another.

And then the mind game. Like so many things, this is where the edge happens.

This week in Bali I took the drop. Bali has big powerful waves that make my home break mild. It was terrifying. In the first session, I didn’t even attempt a wave. I needed to relax in the conditions.

On the second day, I conquered my fear and went for it. Still terrifying, it was also so exciting. The feeling of speed and power of the wave was humbling.

Once you have succeeded in going down a big wave once, it is hard to go back. Tony, my partner, has been telling me for two years that the bigger, faster waves are easier to ride. I doubted him. Now I know from my experience that it is true.

As an endurance athlete for most of my life, my sport has been my self-development. As an embodied learner, I need to get lessons in my neurophysiology. Learn by doing. Experience over theory. Practice, not talking about practice.

Learning to surf in my fifth -sixth decade provides me with a new classroom.

Photo Taken September 4, 2022

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