One of my most favourite of all feelings

Cold air, clear blue skies, whales breaching. Glorious sunrise.

The hunt for a wave, up and down the coast. Us, and everyone else.

Ocean fresh, invigorating. Keep moving to keep warm. Small pickings on a southerly swell and westerly breeze.

Feet frozen, stinging on the barefoot pebble walk back to the car.

The glorious feel of the warm sun on your back, feet thawing.

A late breakfast. Hunger that comes with delay, the cold and being in the water.

I feel alive.

It is one of my most favourite of all feelings. Exactly this. Winter warming sun, a belly of food deserved. Time unconstrained. My love beside me. A nap coming.

I cherish this moment.

Photo Taken July 20th 2024

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