In my head

I am learning o surf. It is a journey of commitment. Days of frustration followed by moments of delight.

Yesterday I felt like I was not making any progress.

It is all in my head.

Unlike many people in my age category, I am fit, strong and flexible.

This is why I love learning new things. I get to see myself reflected in the process of learning. It is humbling wrapped in frustration wrapped in delight.

Today my aim is to have fun. To slow down. To be with the wave, the motion, the feeling. To let it flow, as I do my writing.

To feel, to feel to feel.

We need to think to cross a busy road and survive. Feeling our way across it will not work. But in other areas we need to feel. Feel the water, the wave the motion.

Feel emotion from another. Feel the energy in a room. Feel the unspoken. We cannot think that.

I have fluency in feeling in context. I need to transfer that into my surfing.

Thinking is required for wave choice. From there it is feel everything.

Photo taken August 22nd 2022

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